Answer
As a wave approaches shallow water and breaks, its speed decreases due to increased friction and energy loss caused by the interaction with the bottom of the water body. Simultaneously, the wave's wavelength decreases as its energy becomes compressed, resulting in shorter distances between successive wave crests. Additionally, the wave height increases as it encounters the seafloor, causing the lower part of the wave to slow down due to friction while the upper part continues moving forward. This difference in speed between the upper and lower parts leads to an increase in wave height. Overall, in shallow water and breaking conditions, the wave experiences reduced speed, shorter wavelength, and increased height due to interactions with the seafloor.
Work Step by Step
From the text of section 20.2.
